Wee Chi Chihuahua's

*No information on this page is intended to replace your vet's advice. I am not a vet and do not provide medical advice. This information is from my personal experience & info from other knowledgeable breeders. See your vet for any medical questions you have about breeding your dog*

The short answer...Please Don't

If you insist......

Before you plan on breeding, please do research on Puppy Mills, Backyard Breeders and everything to do with homeless, abused and abandoned pets. There are links on my site and plenty of info on the net. Plan your program to be everything these people are not. Be honest, patient and most of all, put your pet first. You are responsible for every puppy you bring into this world for the rest of their life. It is your choice to have them, not theirs.

I have put a lot of thought into this page. I do not want to come across as someone who encourages anyone to breed their beloved pet, quite the opposite, I want to provide information for people who are genuine about wanting to raise purebred puppies in their home, we all start somewhere. I would like to provide information to people who would like to raise healthy dogs, with the right intentions and love for their dogs. I am open minded & open to mentoring as well. The following information is what I have learned from my vet, other reputable experienced breeders, personal experience and ongoing research. I started from scratch, and learn new things EVERYDAY! If I ever think I know everything, I will quit :)

Many thousands of people get a girl dog and a boy dog together, regardless of breed, quality, health, temperment.......... and in 2 months....puppies. This isn't hard to do, but many people do not put the time, money for vet care and thought into what happens to their female and what future the puppies will have. Many puppies are bought as gifts and soon loose their appeal. They are then re-sold, left at the pound, end up in puppy mills... or worse.  I would like to help those out there who are responsible and willing to give this all they can, and raise healthy well adjusted puppies that are placed in loving homes for the rest of their lives.

The facts:

Being an animal breeder is a lot of hard work!  It costs a lot of money! It can be very heartbreaking at times! Finding and approving of new adoptive families is very time consuming. Cleaning up after the dogs and puppies is a full time job. Keeping up records, vet appointments and public visits takes tons of planning and organization.  And finally, if you are honest, caring and not too exhausted, placing your healthy puppies in their perfect new home is a wonderful and rewarding experience. I have met and made many new friends that I continue to keep in touch with.  I do not make money on my puppies, only life long commitments and new friends. If this sounds like something you are ready for, please read on.

Ok, enough ranting...

1.     Before you even consider breeding...Find an excellent Veterinarian who is familiar with the breed you want to raise and the health issues common for the breed.  I hope that you have chosen a breed that is familiar to you and research, research, research...!!   You need a vet who is available at short notice, weekends and evenings. Have a list of costs for services and have an emergency plan. Your vet should be contacted immediately when problems arise.

        Please choose purebred dogs that are a good example of the breed you would like to represent. I do not personally encourage cross-breeding dogs, but don't judge anyone who choses to. There are many "Designer" dogs out there, but I hope that people will support Purebred breeders. In a couple years, Purebred dogs will be so rare. I mean no insult to those who do cross-breed, but these dogs, not too many years ago, were free to loving homes.  Please pick a breed, love the breed, and stick to that breed.  It is a myth that Purebred dogs have more health problems & that Mixed dogs are healthier! More purebred dogs are screened for health issues so it appears that they have more problems. A genetically unsound dog will produce genetically unsound puppies. Mating 2 dogs that have a genetic predisposition to a certain health problem will give you pups with even bigger problems. Do your Homework!! Know what you are looking out for. Have your dogs screened. This is true regardless if they are purebred or mixed. Purebred dogs and Mixed dogs need proper health screening Before breeding.

How do you Promote Yourself and Your Breed?

    *Think about the kind of person you want to be known as. I strive to be approachable, I want to promote purebred dogs, but we all know that some purebred breeders can be a "pain" to deal with or "rude & snotty".  Some make it so extremely difficult to adopt a dog, they drive away families who would have given that dog the perfect home. I have made an honest commitment to be easy to talk to, work to solve problems & improve myself as a person and as a breeder. I know that I am human, I have & will make mistakes, but I learn from it and better myself. My reputation is important, I don't want anyone to choose not to buy a purebred dog because of me being "rude or hard to approach", that kind of attitude is why families turn to pet stores or other means of getting a puppy without much trouble. I will be honest with you, even if it's not what you were wanting to hear (sorry ). Don't get me wrong, I screen families, but I believe in getting to know people & work to help them make the right decision in adding a puppy to their family. I have made a lot of very special friends over the years who have adopted pups from me. That, to me, is Priceless!*

2.     Choose your breeding dogs carefully and take your time.  Adopt from reputable breeders and be sure the dogs are a good example of the breed, health and temperment being the most important.  In a chihuahua, you want a female that is 4-6 lbs full grown, that does not have any genetic health problems and that is within the breed standard. She should be well tempered, of a healthy weight, and have been fully vet examined before you go ahead. She should be 1.5 to 2 yrs of age and be on her second heat. Remember that a puppy may not grow to be a dog that should be bred, no matter how cute they are.

         Your male should also be within the breed standard, healthy and mature, at least 1.5 yrs old. He should be well tempered and vet examined for genetic health problems.

3.     Your home needs to be set up for your dogs and the puppies. An exercise pen, baby gates, a playpen or large kennel and whelping supplies should be on hand before you start. This is a list of supplies that I keep on hand, feel free to add your own:

puppy pads, newspaper (lots of it), old clean towels, floss for tying umbilical cords, sterile scissors and clamps, sterile water, milk supplement, heating pads, good lighting, weight scale, camera, pen and paper, rubber gloves, paper towel, the phone and your vets phone number on speed dial.

This is my Nursery.

4.     When your female is 6-10 months of age, she should have her first heat. Do not breed her until she in on her 2nd heat and over 1.5 yrs old. Some dogs do not follow the text book on this, so make sure you are in tune with you girl. When she goes into heat, her vulva will swell and she will have a bloody discharge. In about 5-10 days (give or take) the discharge should change to a straw color and she will start to "stand" for the male. Some females will seem to force themselves on the male...this is her signal that she is ready to breed. I let my male and female breed every other day for a total of 3 times. They will "lock" together for about 30 minutes. I am always there to hold the female so she does not hurt the male. Some females can be a bit scared and even aggressive to the male. Never let them breed without your supervision.

        If using a male from another breeder, both male and female should be be tested for STDs. Dogs get them too. Talk to your vet.

       The area where they breed should be quiet and stress free.  The gestation of all dogs is 63 days (9 weeks) and you can start counting on the day of the first breeding. Puppies born before 58 days gestation will likely be too undeveloped and young to survive. Gestation can also go a few days over the 63 days, but should be closely monitored by your vet. Average litter size for chihuahuas is 1-4.  Chihuahuas are notorious for needing c-sections and will cost $400-1000 (or more), depending on the situation. Any female of mine that needs a c-section, will be spayed at the same time, no exceptions. 

5.     All your dogs need an excellent diet. I feed "Acana"  and supplement with raw eggs once in a while. Always follow your vet's recommendations. I do not start a calcium supplement until the puppies are 3 weeks old, as the females calcium levels don't drop until this time. Giving the calcium earlier can cause her natural calcium production to drop, and can cause "milk fever" which can be fatal. I will comment on this later.  She will need more frequent meals and plenty of fresh water. 

6.     If she has become pregnant, she may not start to "show" until she is 4-5 weeks along. Her vulva should remain slightly to very swollen, her nipples will enlarge and the hair will start to thin around them, in preparation for nursing the pups. She may have some morning sickness. She will want to be close to you and may have mood swings....just like humans.  Hormones can sometimes cause hair loss, and some females will even have bald spots. This is normal, but always check with your vet.  Her abdomen will start to enlarge and usually around the 6th week, you should be able to feel the puppies moving. I love this part!!

*BABY BELLY*

I have had a lot of questions about how to tell if the female is pregnant. You can have pregnancy tests, ultrasound and have your vet palpate the abdomen early on (25-38 days), but I treat her as if she is until about a week before she is due. That is when she is taken to the vet for an x-ray. I have 2 views, 1 from the side and 1 from the underside of her belly. The puppies bones will not be calcified enough until this time for them to accurately get measurements of craniums and the mothers pelvis. I have the puppies counted and their positions noted. I can see which ones are going to possibly be breech. I have the measurements of the skulls taken in relation to the mothers pelvis to make sure there is enough room for whelping.

Can you count how many babies are in there?? (4)

       Your female should have a complete exam during pregnancy to ensure she is healthy and thriving. Having puppies should never be more important than her health.

7.     When your female is ready to whelp, she will have signs for you to watch for. You will have to be there with her..no matter what, so you will need to plan around her. If this is not possible, have someone "babysit" her or take her with you. Problems can happen very fast and she relies on you for help. Labor can come on suddenly and without much warning some times.

        Most of the time you can look for these signs that something is happening:

Her rectal temp will drop 12-24 hours before labor. This is very accurate and I start this 1 week before her due date and continue until she delivers.  Keep a record of her morning and evening temp. It will first go up, then drop before she goes into labor. 

She will start to become restless and start nesting. You should already have her whelping area ready and she should be encouraged to sleep there. You should be able to check on her through the night (when most of my girls deliver).

She may have discharge from the vagina and be licking herself a lot. If at any time the discharge smells foul or is green, take her to the vet asap!! This could be a sign of infection.

When she is close, her water may break. She is ready to start active labor. Make sure she is taken to the bathroom frequently and given plenty of water. She may not want to eat much at this point.  I have even used a dropper to give water if she won't drink.  A dehydrated female can have trouble pushing and may give into fatigue without being able to deliver her pups.

Talk to your Vet about a Calcium Supplement to use during labor, this has shown to be helpful to keep the female's calcium levels stable & encourage contractions to continue. It won't start labor however, only support her during so she doesn't tire out. I have used "Tums" or something similar, but will be changing to a Calcium Gel (found on the website www.midwoof.com). Calcium can also assist in helping to prevent Pre-eclampsia in your female.

This may be happening when the female experiences muscle weakness, muscle spasms, muscle tremors, muscle rigidity & seizures. May be accompanied with a fever that is very difficult to control. If you notice any of these symptoms get Emergency Vet Care Immediately! This is a Medical Emergency!

When she starts to push, she may or may not allow you to help. I sit quietly beside her, with her in a large whelping bed. I put the heating pad under her bedding to keep her warm. I do not bother her if she is doing well. I make sure she is ok and that she knows I am there with her. If you can, having a helper with you to record events, and get you what you need is very helpful. My daughter has spent many nights up with me and I couldn't do it without her.

As she starts to push out the first puppy, I stay close, and when the puppy is out, I give her a quick chance to break the bag of water. I then break the bag around the puppy's face so he can breath.  If the pup is breech, I gently but firmly pull him up between her legs towards her chest. If the pup is forward, but she is having trouble, I will also give him a little pull in the same way. She should never be left to push for more than 1 hour before calling the vet.  Females can go 10 min or even 4 hours between delivery of puppies. If, at any time you feel that something is wrong, call the vet.

Once the puppy is out, I usually give her a chance to lick the puppy a bit. I do not let them eat any of the placentas. Some vets say to let them eat at least 1, but I find that it gives her the runs and really is not a benefit to her. They eat them to keep predators away in the wild, so this is not necessary in the safety of my home. Don't cut the cord yet.

I will then gently pull on the cord at the mothers vagina, and help the placenta out. Never force it, you can break the cord and the placenta may become retained. The mother will naturally try to chew the cord off, but when she pulls on the cord, she can cause a hernia at the puppy's belly button. I usually take the puppy at this time, in a clean warm towel and rub him vigorously. If he is having trouble breathing, I will cup him in my hands, facing away from me, supporting his head, and swing him between my legs. This uses gravity to clear the lungs of mucous and fluid. I make sure the nose and mouth are also clear of fluid. Keep the puppies warm!

Once the puppy is breathing and crying, I pinch the cord at the placenta, and "milk" the blood into the puppy. Doing this can give them life saving blood. I then clamp or tie the cord about 1cm from their tummy, and cut the cord with sterile scissors. A few more rubs with the towel and making sure he is breathing, and then give him to the mom. She may try to pick him up and carry him away. Try to settle her and encourage her to nurse. Give her some quiet time, some water and maybe a bathroom break.

It will soon be time to help the next puppy into the world. When she is all finished, provide her with clean bedding, food and water, and lots of love. If all placentas are not out, contact your vet.  I document all stages of labor and delivery for my records and future reference. All pups are weighed at birth and every day during the first week. Mom is closely watched for infection and mastitis (an infection with hard, swollen and painful breasts). I watch very closely that all of the pups are eating well and gaining weight.

Mom is de-wormed after birth and the pups start to be de-wormed at 2 weeks of age.  Again, if you have any questions or concerns, call your vet. If you are having dew claws removed, it will need to be done at 2 days after birth. This is a good time for your vet to check on mom and babies.

After the birth....

The puppies will continue to nurse from their mom until they are 3.5-4 weeks old (sometimes longer). When the pups are 3 weeks old, mom gets a calcium supplement. Milk fever can develop if she is drained of calcium from nursing. Signs of milk fever include shaking, seizures, and unconsciousness. This can be fatal and she needs to be taken to the vet immediately. Talk to your vet about this condition.

They will start to show interest in water and food around 4 weeks. They probably will not have their teeth yet, so offering soft food and fresh water is ok. As their teeth start to come in, you can slowly add hard food to their diet, but always watch them as they can choke or even drown.  The mother is a great teacher to her babies, and my females will encourage them to eat food and will wean them on her own. I separate the mother slowly from the babies when they start to eat food, and when they are about 5-6 weeks old, they should be completely weaned. Health check ups are done at 6 weeks. First shots are given shortly after that. Pups are de-wormed starting at 2 weeks and continue every 2 weeks until they leave my home.

When your vet checks your pups, he should look for signs of hydrocephalus, luxating patella, collapsed trachea, failure to thrive, weight, heart problems, temperature, ears, eyes, gait, teeth and everything in between. Your vet is your most valuable resource, make sure they are doing everything you expect and need. Change vets if they aren't.

I will add more information as I think of it, and of course, you are welcome to contact me with your questions any time. If you have ideas and information that I have not included here, I would enjoy hearing from you. Some great ideas have come from many different people with experiences different than mine.

Thank you for your time. Take breeding seriously, Please breed only if you are going to provide the best care and love to your dogs. Don't do this just to experience the miracle of birth. Don't do this because you are curious. Don't do this for income. If you are a good breeder, you won't make a lot of money. You will take the time to find loving families for your babies. Just because your puppies are cute, doesn't mean everyone out there will think so. I would be heart broken to see my pups in the pound, a pet store or in the hands of a puppy miller.

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